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“Codes of labour practice must have a champion – preferably someone at board level – to drive the company’s commitment from the very top. But this is no substitute for allocating day-to-day responsibility for implementing ethical trade policies.”
— ETI Workbook, 2nd Edition

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WORKING with suppliers
to effect change

ETI Seminar Report 3

October 1998

On 25th September 1998, the International Labour Organisation's London office hosted ETI's third 'Learning from Doing' Seminar. Two different approaches to building partnerships for change with local suppliers were discussed. This report presents a summary of some of the main points.The speakers were Sandra Ramos and Philip Mumby.

 

Additional web version material (not in printed copy):

ETI Library ]

 

Sandra Ramos is national Co-ordinator of the Movement of Working and Unemployed Women in Nicaragua. Her work has involved persuading Government and employers to adopt a code of conduct for workers in the Export Processing Zone.

Philip Mumby is a former buyer and now Supply Chain Director at Premier Brands, the largest tea packing company in the UK and a member of ETI.

These speakers' complementary and sometimes contrasting approaches to implementing change for workers provided for a lively and wide-ranging debate.

 

Speakers' presentations  

Sandra Ramos,
Women's Movement in Nicaragua

Outline

Sandra Ramos highlighted how the mobilisation of civil society on a nationwide basis can have a powerful influence on improving labour conditions. She detailed some of the problems confronting workers in Nicaraguan industry sited in the Export Processing Zone (EPZ). She went on to give an account of the broad and successful campaign by women workers to have International Labour Organisation standards and national legislation enforced within the Nicaraguan EPZ. 

Conditions

Conditions in the maquiladoras (factories in the EPZ) are hard and were not helped when, five years ago, the Government tacitly agreed with employers not to enforce statutory labour standards. Malpractices such as forced unpaid overtime, unfair dismissals, and physical and verbal abuse were rife, and there had been reports of physical assault. 

Campaigning

Five years of campaigning with the slogan "jobs yes, but with dignity" reaped success. Fifty thousand signatures were collected, and support was won from churches, business people and parliament, as well as from US consumers (98% of EPZ produce is exported to the USA). In March 1998 a 10-point Code of Ethics was signed by the Minister of Labour, as well as by all employers in the EPZ. 

Partnership

Winning the commitment of employers required a sensitivity to the cultural differences between, for example, Taiwanese, Korean, and North American companies. An emphasis on dialogue and on a sharing of social responsibility between a number of key stakeholder groups helped reassure companies that gains in workers' dignity go hand in hand with increased productivity. 

The Code

The Code guarantees equal pay for equal work, protection from discrimination in the case of pregnancy, and protection against abuse by factory owners. It also ensures the right of workers to receive periodical medical examinations, training programmes and social security benefits. In addition, it prohibits the hiring of workers under 14 years of age. 

Small steps

Improvements are becoming visible. Within the EPZ a health centre, a Labour Ministry office and a nursery are being set up. Reports of physical violence have declined. There are now 10 trade unions representing workers where there were none two years ago. Five thousand workers have been trained in their employment rights, and pocket manuals outlining workers' rights have been distributed. The next step is to develop effective ways of ensuring compliance with the Code. In this, worker involvement is crucial. Workers can assess company by company what is happening, and identify the most pressing problems. Tackling these, however, will require all sectors -- workers, employers, Government, unions and non-governmental organisations -- to work together.

 

Philip Mumby,
Premier Brands

Introduction

Philip Mumby mapped out the evolution of an ethical agenda at Premier Brands (PB). Aided by the very short supply chain in the tea trade, PB began building closer relations with its suppliers from the mid-1980s onwards as a means of playing a more active role in safeguarding quality. Concern over working conditions emerged as one component of what came in 1992 to be known as the Quality Assurance Project (QAP) -- essentially a formalisation of the supplier selection process.

This careful work was briefly derailed when marketing endeavoured to promote Typhoo Tea, part of PB, as 'ethical' by self-certifying it under the banner of "caring for tea and our tea pickers". This positioning was quickly dropped, and the QAP refocused on its original Total Quality perspective with the ethical component still included.

Over recent years the emphasis has shifted from supplier selection toward supplier development, and more effort has gone into building secure relations with smaller suppliers.

As a result of seeking to apply best practice in sourcing, the following have come about or been observed as a natural consequence. 

The importance of good relations with suppliers

A concern for labour standards emerges naturally from a concern for quality and for good long-term relationships with suppliers. Direct contact with suppliers makes possible a more hands-on approach to product improvement -- "we can tell them what our consumers tell us". Within this context, suppliers will more readily discuss sensitive issues like employee welfare. For PB, an ethical agenda was more readily accepted by management when placed in this context rather than in that of extra-curricular philanthropy. 

Development not selection

Emphasis should be placed on developing labour conditions within existing suppliers rather than simply 'cherry picking' the best suppliers. The general philosophy should be: "Unless I'm doing something which materially affects the conditions on the ground I'm not actually doing anything. I'm covering myself maybe, but I'm not doing anything ethical myself." 

Relative improvement not absolute standards

Insisting on one absolute standard -- e.g. as with certification schemes -- risks privileging large suppliers. For such suppliers the standards should be set higher than in the case of smaller ones. 

Smaller suppliers need security

The advantages of working with smaller suppliers include the potential for a more rapid product development process. However, working conditions are often worse, and such suppliers are typically far more vulnerable to price fluctuations. By offering longer term contracts and guaranteed price floors, smaller suppliers can enjoy security while committing to making improvements in labour conditions. 

Third-party monitoring

While conceding that this may have a part to play in other industries where problems of scale and long supply chains exist, PB's experience is that third- party monitoring is counterproductive. Carefully built-up relationships are undermined and trust is eroded. Where monitoring is involved from the very beginning, third-party involvement can work, but is no substitute for active engagement. Overall, it is the business relationship that is key. 

Verification

PB recently undertook an independent verification trial, which had positive results, and will be developing further independent trials in the future as part of the ETI learning process. 

Accreditation

PB does not support accreditation, as it transfers responsibility from buyer to supplier, favours large suppliers, and further marginalises small ones. 

Employee welfare or workers' rights?

Are the two terms the same, or does the second go beyond the first? Employers need to move beyond paternalistic approaches and take on board the perspectives of workers. Employers' apprehensions about conflict with trade unions can be overcome by pointing to best-practice examples of company/trade union relations. The discussion focused in more depth on the themes described above.

 

Further details of the discussion, additional to the paper copy of this briefing, follow below.

Additional Material:
Notes from the discussion

Moving beyond conflict: the trade union position

Consumer pressure

Neither speaker assigned consumer pressure a particularly high importance in the shift towards ethical sourcing. Various pitfalls in overrelying on consumer pressure were identifed:

Does improving working conditions mean increasing costs? Will increased costs have to be passed on to the consumer?

Verification: the importance of free association and worker input

 

 

Case Study - Mandarin and The Gap

An independent NGO became involved in the independent monitoring of Mandarin, a Taiwanese-owned supplier of The Gap located in El Salvador. The objectives included the re-establishment of a trade union and the return to work of 400 workers following a strike. After two years, 30% of those who wanted to return had done so, including trade union leaders and others who had been black-listed. Working conditions have now substantially improved - to the extent that conditions there are now better than at many factories within the EPZs. The Gap, meanwhile, has benefitted from the process by introducing new values and concepts for working practices throughout the company. Indeed, independent monitors can now visit Mandarin at any time.

 
     

 

[Note: The views expressed in this seminar are those
of the individuals concerned, and do not necessarily
represent the positions of their organisations, or
of the Ethical Trading Initiative.]

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