FAQs
Is ETI a certification scheme?
How do you hold companies to account?
Have you ever refused a company membership?
What do companies get out of ETI membership?
Where can I buy ETI-approved products?
Should I boycott retailers with poor reputations?
What can I do to get retailers to be more ethical?
How can I trust what retailers say about their ethical trade policies?
Is it possible for companies to sell cheap products and still be ethical?
Is ETI a certification scheme?
No. We do not issue any certificates or labels to any company, nor do we accredit auditing companies or individuals as ‘ethical trade' auditors or trainers. We do not carry out audits ourselves.
At present, we do not provide information to the public on the ethical performance of individual companies. However, we do provide information on overall trends in performance across our corporate membership.
How do you hold companies to account?
Although ETI is not a regulatory body, companies that join us commit to adopting credible and effective strategies to improve conditions in their supply chains. Our company members also report to us annually on their progress in addressing workers' conditions in their supply chains. If we are not satisfied that a company is fulfilling its membership obligations, we invoke our disciplinary procedure. If a company persistently fails to address concerns raised over its performance, the ultimate sanction is to expel it from ETI.
We are currently reviewing our membership obligations with a view to updating and further strengthening them to drive more positive changes for workers.
Have you ever refused a company membership?
We sometimes turn down applications for membership if we believe that a company is not ready to join. However, we advise companies to take time to engage in dialogue with us before submitting a formal application, so they can better understand ETI membership obligations and to give us the opportunity to gauge their commitment to ethical trade. In some cases, after meeting with prospective applicants, we advise them to that they are not yet ready to become members and recommend steps to prepare themselves.
What do companies get out of ETI membership?
ETI is a hub of learning and collective action. By joining ETI, companies collaborate with some of the world's leading players in ethical trade on cutting edge projects aimed at finding solutions to some of toughest ethical challenges facing companies. Many of these challenges - for example, raising wages, or ending discrimination - can only be effectively tackled through collective action. Through ETI's annual reporting system, member companies can also benchmark their performance against other members, assess their progress over time and learn about other companies' approaches and activities.
Read more about the benefits of membership: Join ETI
Are ETI members 'ethical'?
We often get asked if our member companies get some kind of endorsement or ‘badge of approval' from ETI because they are members. Being a member of ETI does not necessarily mean that workers' rights are fully protected throughout their supply chain, and we are careful not to send out this message - in today's globalised economy, all buying companies have issues in their supply chains. ETI membership demonstrates a company has acknowledged that these issues exist, and has made a serious commitment to tackling them. Find out more about what member companies sign up to when they join ETI.
Where can I buy ETI-approved products?
At the moment there is no such thing as an ETI ‘approved' product. Our approach is to mainstream respect for workers' rights into the day-to-day behaviour of buying companies, in a way that achieves widespread, incremental improvements to workers' conditions in their supply chains. Our focus is on determining what steps companies should take to do this, and holding them to account, rather than on making any claims about any of their products.
Should I boycott retailers with poor reputations?
There is some evidence to suggest that boycotts can help change company behaviour. For example, Nike and Gap were subject to widespread boycotts in the mid 1990s and have since gained respect for developing credible ethical trading strategies. However, there is a danger that boycotting may actually make workers worse off. For example, if a factory or farm loses orders as a result of a consumer boycott, they may end up making people redundant. There are many countries where the state doesn't provide adequate welfare protection for the unemployed, so one person being laid off from work can mean a whole family is thrown into poverty.
Often if you ask workers' representatives, they will ask that people carry on buying products from their countries, because first and foremost they want to keep their jobs.
What can I do to get retailers to be more ethical?
Wherever you do your shopping, there is a lot you can do to let retailers and brands know about your concerns. The more questions we all ask, the more likely retailers will be to listen - and act. You can:
- check which companies are members of ETI - they have made serious commitments to ethical trade and their activities are scrutinised by ETI's trade union and NGO members.
- learn more about the issues - for example, by downloading ETI's Factsheet for consumers.
- join a campaign for better conditions in supply chains.
- ask searching questions - write to CEOs; ask store staff if they know where their products come from.
Find out how to be an ‘ethical pest'
How can I trust what retailers say about their ethical trade policies?
We encourage all retailers to be open and honest about what they are doing to help improve the conditions of the workers in their supply chains, and about what challenges they face. There is no easy way of verifying what companies are actually doing, but you should be able to build up a reasonable picture by doing a little digging. The logical first place to start is to visit the company's own website. You can check:
- Has the company signed up to the ETI Base Code? This is the first, vital step for any company to take.
- Is it a member of an alliance dedicated to promoting workers' rights, like ETI? Our members have made serious commitments to trading ethically and their activities are scrutinised by trade union and NGO members of ETI.
- If the company is not a member of ETI, what information do they provide on their ethical trade strategy?
Is it possible for companies to sell cheap products and still be ethical?
Retailers must pay their suppliers a price for their products that allows suppliers to pay workers a wage they can afford to live on, and there is clearly a level at which low prices are likely to negatively impact on workers.
The judgement about whether or not the price of a product is too low has to be made on a case-by-case basis. It would be too simplistic to say all cheap clothes are necessarily ‘bad for workers', just as it would be to say that more expensive clothes are always ‘good for workers'.
Many of our members participate in our Purchasing Practices Project. Through this project, companies work alongside trade union and NGO counterparts and suppliers to carry out research into the impact of their purchasing practices (including the lead times they give suppliers to complete orders and the prices they pay) on workers' rights, and to find out what they can do to make it easier for suppliers to pay their workers a living wage.
Does ethical trade cover environmental issues?
For ETI, ethical trade is about workers' rights and conditions. Although it may be part of a company's wider corporate responsibility strategy, by itself it says nothing about a company's environmental performance or other corporate responsibility issues, such as governance or community engagement.
What's the difference between ethical trade and fairtrade?
Ethical trade and fairtrade have distinct origins, but their approaches are complementary: both focus on helping make international trade work better for poor and otherwise disadvantaged people.
The ethical trade movement originated the 1990s when campaigns and media exposés brought attention to the harsh conditions of workers producing clothes, shoes, toys, food and other consumables for multinational companies. Ethical trade involves large buying companies taking a series of recognised steps to improve the conditions of the workers throughout their supply chains, wherever they are in the world.
The fairtrade movement originated in the 1980s to protect poor developing country farmers from low international market prices of commodities such as coffee, cocoa and tea. Products carrying the FAIRTRADE Mark help address the injustice of low prices by guaranteeing that producers receive fair terms of trade and fair prices - whatever the conventional market is. Producer organisations also receive a small premium for business or social development projects.
Ethical trade and Fairtrade: key differences at a glance
Ethical trade |
The FAIRTRADE Mark |
|
Focuses on protecting workers' rights throughout the supply chain |
Focuses on helping disadvantaged producers and workers in the developing world - eg, cotton, banana, cocoa and coffee farmers - take more control over their lives |
|
Is about the behaviour of buying companies - retailers, brands and their suppliers - and the steps they take to ensure supplier companies respect workers' rights |
Applies specifically to products, not companies |
|
Does not depend on consumer awareness - that's why there is no recognised ‘ethically traded' label |
Has widespread consumer recognition and a recognised label, the Fairtrade Mark |
I've been asked to get an audit of the ETI Base Code - what is it?
What can I do to make sure I pass the audit?
Will I get a certificate to say I've passed?
So how will I benefit from an audit?
I've been asked to get an audit of the ETI Base Code - what is it?
The ETI Base Code is a generic code of labour practice and is internationally recognised as a model code. All ETI member companies and many other retailers and brands have adopted the Base Code and have committed to making sure their suppliers work towards it over time. Companies either adopt it word-for-word, or incorporate it into their own company codes.
As part of their commitment to ethical trade, buying companies need to find out what working conditions are like in their supply chains, so they can identify any potential issues that need resolving. Campaigning organisations and increasingly, concerned consumers, also ask that companies assess their suppliers. ETI member companies - and many others - inspect significant numbers of their suppliers against the ETI Base Code every year. View the ETI Base Code
How do I arrange the audit?
We don't carry out audits against the ETI Base Code ourselves, as that's not our role as an organisation. However, many private certification and auditing companies have experience of carrying out audits against the Base Code, and some of them have staff around the world. Below are some of the ones we know about:
Please note that ETI does not endorse any of these organisations.
As the quality of audit firms and individual auditors varies tremendously, some tips on making sure you get accurate results are:
- Ask that the audit is carried out by local staff with appropriate language skills and cultural knowledge.
- Make sure the audit team has a gender balance that matches that of your workforce.
- Make sure the auditors carry out confidential interviews with workers.
- Ask for experienced auditors.
- Ask that auditors give a narrative account, rather than just ticking boxes.
You may also find a local non-governmental organisation in your area that has relevant skills and could either carry out, or participate in an audit.
What can I do to make sure I pass the audit?
We expect our corporate members to use audits as a way of diagnosing problems, not as a ‘pass or fail' test. In fact, it's very rare to find any company that's fully compliant with the Base Code.
If you supply an ETI member company, you should expect them to help you make any necessary improvements within a timeframe that works for both of you. ETI member companies should not stop trading with you if the audit uncovers only minor issues. However, if they uncover very serious issues, you will be expected to take immediate corrective action. If you do not do so, you may lose the business.
Will I get a certificate to say I've passed?
After being audited, it is possible that you will receive a certificate of compliance with the ETI Base Code from the auditing company. You should be aware that ETI does not formally endorse any certificate that claims that a company is ‘compliant with ETI' or ‘compliant with the ETI Base Code'. We do not endorse any companies who carry out workplace audits, as we are not an accreditation body.
So how will I benefit from an audit?
As well as keeping customers happy, many suppliers who have invested the time and resources in improving conditions for their workers have found that their efforts have brought them business benefits, including:
- Boosting morale
- Reducing absenteeism
- Improving employee retention
- Increasing productivity
- Increasing profitability
It's also likely that as retailers and brands respond to increasing concern among Western consumers about workers' rights in supply chains, more and more of your customers will start asking you to comply with the ETI Base Code. So making the effort now should stand you in good stead for the future.
Why do I have to go through so many audits?
Life would be much easier if one audit was acceptable for all! There are many reasons why buying companies like to do their own audits. These include:
- There is no single internationally agreed code of labour practice. Although many companies - particularly those in the UK - follow the ETI Base Code, some follow other codes that have been developed by different ‘labour standards initiatives'.
- Even where companies are auditing against the Base Code they often tag these audits on to quality and environmental audits.
- Audit methodologies are by no means 100% reliable - we often hear of cases where a supplier may be found compliant in one area by one buying company, while another will find them non-compliant. Buying companies often don't trust other peoples' audit reports for that reason.
Can I join ETI?
ETI focuses on the responsibilities of companies that outsource their production to other companies, and so do not directly employ the workers involved in making their products. The challenges we tackle include questions such as ‘How can a buying company make sure its buying practices (such as lead times, price negotiations) don't impinge on its suppliers' ability to provide decent conditions for their workers?' and ‘How can a company persuade a supplier to improve conditions if it only takes a small proportion of its production?' For this reason, membership is most relevant for companies that outsource a significant proportion of their production.
I'm an auditor - how do I get ETI accreditation?
Unlike other organisations, we do not have a formal system for registering or accrediting auditing companies for doing inspections against the ETI Base Code, nor do we carry out audits ourselves. That means in principle there is nothing to stop any third company carrying out an audit of a supplier against the ETI Base Code, but we strongly recommend that they can offer an audit team that has the necessary skills to obtain accurate information about workers' conditions. It's worth noting that in our experience, carrying out audits of working conditions requires very different skills to those required for other types of audits - for example, financial, environmental or quality audits. The ETI Workbook provides guidance about what skills, experience and team composition are most effective in getting the best information out of audits.
Isn't ethical trade just for large companies?
Why should I source ethically?
Where can I find a list of ‘approved' manufacturers?
So what can I do to get information on my suppliers' labour practices?
Isn't ethical trade just for large companies?
Ethical trade tends to be associated with activities undertaken by multinational companies to address and improve working conditions in what are often vast and complex supply chains. Although small and medium-sized sourcing companies may not have the resources and leverage of large multinationals, we believe they still bear a responsibility towards the workers involved in making their products, and can and should seek to source ethically. And the fact that smaller companies often have far fewer suppliers and closer relationships with them than large companies may actually make it easier for them to get their suppliers to improve.
Why should I source ethically?
There are lots of reasons why it makes good business sense to source ethically. For example, some companies have found that the increased communication with suppliers entailed in implementing an ethical sourcing strategy can help build trust among suppliers and so increase efficiency in their supply chain. Larger public companies can also attract investment, as ethically motivated investors grow in number.
For many small businesses, the primary business motivation for sourcing ethically is as a source of market differentiation with their customers. There are many signs that ‘conscientious consumers' are growing in number, prompting many small companies to market themselves and/or their products as ‘ethical' or ‘fairly traded'.
If you are thinking of doing this, it is important that you are very clear about what statements you make to consumers. Be careful not to make claims that cannot be backed up by evidence, as you could be criticised for misleading your customers.
How you prioritise your efforts will depend on the size of your business, how much experience you already have, what industry you are in and how complex your supply chain is. As a rule of thumb, any company starting out in ethical trade, whatever its size, should at least:
- develop a code of labour practice based on all the relevant conventions of the International Labour Organisation (we encourage companies to adopt the ETI Base Code);
- get management and staff buy-in;
- make sure you have adequate skills and resources for the job;
- find out as much as possible about your suppliers and assess conditions in their workplaces;
- communicate regularly with your suppliers and work with them to make sure they improve over time; and
- make sure your buying practices (eg, lead times, pricing) don't constrain suppliers' ability to comply with your code.
Where can I find a list of ‘approved' manufacturers?
We are often asked if we can provide a list of ‘ethical' or ‘ETI-approved' manufacturers/producers. Unfortunately, ethical trade is more complex than that! For a start, it is difficult enough to find any lists of manufacturers, as buying companies tend not to reveal the identity of their suppliers. This is something we encourage though and recently several large companies - notably Nike, Levi Strauss & Co., Puma and others have revealed the names and contact details of their top level suppliers on their websites.
Here are some suggestions on different approaches to finding suppliers:
No initial ‘ethical' screening
It is perfectly valid to choose your supplier solely on the basis of commercial criteria, then work with them to help them resolve any issues over time. You may well have more positive impact with suppliers who may not be perfect but are willing to improve, than with those who are already doing well.
Look for trade union membership
If you do want to check suppliers before you start sourcing from them, as a simple rule of thumb you could find out if any potential suppliers have a unionised workforce, as this should at least mean that workers have the space to bargain for their rights with management.
Check for SA8000 certification
There is also a certification scheme called SA8000 run by US-based Social Accountability International (SAI), whereby manufacturers who want to provide a public report of their good labour practices can obtain SA8000 certification. Note that even if a supplier has gained a certificate, this is not a foolproof guarantee that they will continue to be compliant in the future. Supplier companies are getting very adept at hiding problems.
So what can I do to get information on my suppliers' labour practices?
If you have the resources, it makes sense to visit the supplier in person and inspect the workplace/s yourself. The ETI Workbook provides detailed information about how to get accurate information during inspections, including suggestions on what questions to ask workers and managers, what records to check and so on. If you are able to make a personal visit, you also need to work out how you are going to follow up on any issues you uncover.
If your business is very small and you do not have the resources to carry out in-depth inspections of the workplace/s concerned, here are a few suggestions on how you can get information:
- Send the supplier a copy of the ETI Base Code.
- Ask them whether they have seen a code of labour practice before, and if so, what are their views about it and what are they doing to comply with it. Sometimes asking just a few well-chosen questions will give you a good indication about the suppliers' attitude.
- Ask your supplier whether they have been audited for their labour practices and if they have, ask them who carried it out and if you can see a copy. If they appear happy to share information, this is one indication that they will be willing to improve.
- Stay in regular communication with your supplier. Ethical trade is not a one-off activity.
- Find out what you can about local conditions to try and build up a picture of what the national laws are and whether they are enforced, and what the main risks of labour abuses are.
- If you can, find out who your suppliers' other customers are. If they include any of ETI's members, it's worth contacting the company/ies concerned to see if you can share information and/or pool resources.
Can I join ETI?
We welcome enquiries about membership from any company, whatever their size or type of business. However, small companies may find it difficult to devote sufficient time and resources to fulfilling the commitments that ETI membership entails. For example, corporate members must provide detailed annual reports to ETI and participate actively in our projects. Find out more about joining ETI here.