Tiruppur Stakeholder Forum: Reckoning, renewal, and real change

In 2012, the beating heart of India’s global textile trade Tiruppur, Tamil Nadu was rocked by allegations that cut deep into the conscience of the export-driven city. Reports by Anti-Slavery International and SOMO exposed the “Sumangali scheme,” where young women, some barely out of school, were lured into factories with promises of lump-sum payments years down the line money often intended for family dowries. Instead, they found themselves in debt bondage, in crowded hostels, their wages withheld. The story was not new, but the world’s attention suddenly was.

It was in this moment of reckoning that the Tiruppur Exporters’ Association (TEA), champions of Indian knitwear since 1990, realised that the success of their thriving sector could no longer rest on technical skill alone. The industry had to grapple with the imperative of fairness, dignity, and inclusivity for its workers.

Building Bridges: The emergence of the first TSF

The Tiruppur Stakeholder Forum (TSF) was born from a crisis, but its birth was unique — instead of siloed solutions, it brought together manufacturers, nine trade unions, a human rights research group, local mill associations, NGOs, and several global brands convened through the Ethical Trading Initiative. The focus was immediately clear: urgent reform to ensure the safety and welfare of women in factory hostels. Guided by the realities of those most affected, TSF achieved its first victory as inclusive hostel guidelines were voluntarily adopted, then made law by the Tamil Nadu government in 2014.

While the TSF delivered a major victory, it soon lost steam and left deeper worker issues unresolved.

As one NGO member remarked, 

“The early TSF did a good job with the hostel guidelines. However, the ongoing issues related to migrants’ language, housing, and their general presence remained unaddressed.” 

The forum risked being trapped by its own early success, a single victory, but with a broader, growing crises unresolved.

Drift, dormancy, and a city in transition

After the initial momentum of the TSF waned, new social and economic complexities began to reshape the city of Tiruppur, located in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. By 2011, Tiruppur, already a globally significant textile manufacturing hub, had become home to approximately 600,000 migrant workers, a number that continued to grow rapidly. This influx of internal migrants, primarily from distant states such as Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha, and West Bengal in eastern and central India, fundamentally changed the city’s demographic and economic fabric by 2014-15. According to an article published in July 2023, this wave of migration brought fresh energy but also introduced new vulnerabilities, particularly for those working in the textile sector. Unlike local workers, these migrants often faced severe challenges that included language barriers, insecure and overcrowded housing, and limited access to existing labour protections and grievance mechanisms. Their presence, now constituting over 60% of the textile workforce, made their inclusion and representation a critical concern for initiatives like the TSF. Addressing these unique challenges required expanded efforts to ensure that migrant workers, not just residents, could access fair treatment, safe living conditions, and meaningful avenues to voice workplace grievances, thereby moving toward a more inclusive, equitable garment industry in Tiruppur.

The decline of the TSF was keenly felt during this period. A civil society representative who had been involved since the beginning encapsulated the mood by saying, 

“The initial TSF possessed good intentions and collaboration, but its engagement gradually became inconsistent, lacking the sustained momentum needed to tackle persistent challenges.” 

This absence of the TSF was particularly evident when migrant workers raised demands for fair wages and dignity at work, critical issues that were largely overlooked. As one trade union leader bluntly stated, the forum "was nowhere" when these demands were made.

Factory owners found themselves in a familiar dilemma. Implementing individual welfare initiatives proved costly, and the competitive nature of the industry made it financially risky for any one owner to act alone. The question "Why should I bear this cost alone?" frequently emerged, highlighting the larger issue of fragmented responsibility within complex supply chains.

The Patient Campaign for Revival: ETI's journey of trust-building

ETI has been dedicated to the Tiruppur Stakeholder Forum (TSF) since its inception in 2012, well before the recent revival efforts. It played a crucial role in establishing the original framework during the Sumangali scheme crisis and collaborated with stakeholders to create the hostel guidelines, which were implemented as law in 2014. Even during the forum's dormant period, ETI remained committed to fostering multi-stakeholder collaboration.

By late 2020, supported by STITCH funding, ETI recognised that this dormancy would not signify the end of its efforts. The need for revival was urgent, as there were increasing reports of gender-based violence, stagnant wages, and a marginalised migrant workforce, all of which highlighted ongoing issues within the industry. During this time, ETI supported the Tiruppur Exporters' Association (TEA) and   the Tamil Nadu multi-stakeholder initiative programme for TEA suppliers and mill workers, by providing high-level training on human rights due diligence (HRDD) and social dialogue.

Winning Over the Sceptics: TEA's journey

Rather than rushing, ETI undertook a careful, patient campaign of bridge-building. We engaged with brands privately, met with unions in their spaces, collaborated with NGOs, and held discussions with exporters in various venues across Tiruppur. Each conversation had two goals: to understand past failures and to build enough trust to convince stakeholders that cooperation was possible once again.

This work was exhaustive but deliberate. By 2023, ETI’s persistence had successfully convinced the TEA, arguably the most critical actor, to not only rejoin but also take the lead in the revival efforts.

Overcoming Scepticism: Uniting with trade unions through dialogue and history

Bringing trade unions back to the table was never going to be easy; it demanded relentless diplomacy and humility.  Their scepticism ran deep; they questioned whether any industry-led initiative could truly put workers' interests first or whether it was just another façade. ETI knew these wounds wouldn’t heal on their own, so they chose a strategy rooted in persistent, authentic dialogue. No grand presentations, no generic promises; just open, specific conversations about the gnawing realities unions cared about most. The emotional stakes were high — union leaders still carried the weight of "nobody pressed employers" on critical issues, especially for migrant workers who faced language barriers, insecure housing, and almost invisible grievance systems. The breakthrough, when it came, was disarmingly honest. An ETI staff member, after months of painstaking conversation, laid it out plainly: "If you don't see the value of this forum, at least trust this forum as a space for you to voice out your indignation." In that moment, the forum was recast not just as a committee, but as a safe ground to air hard truths. This willingness to acknowledge union frustrations while providing a practical platform for expression became the pivot point that shifted momentum. And just as doubt began to give way to possibility, ETI discovered a powerful ally in Tiruppur itself: the town’s unique legacy of multi-stakeholder partnership. Unlike anywhere else in India, Tiruppur had managed to bring both textile associations and national trade unions together in a joint committee to bargain for minimum wage agreements. This legacy, once brought to the fore, helped unions see that working alongside TEA was not a naïve leap of faith but a proven, homegrown model. The presence of this collaborative structure, one observer remarked, became a "good luck charm" — solid proof that, with the right facilitation, even the most divided actors could achieve lasting, meaningful progress side by side.

A second beginning

The relaunch event was both symbolic and substantive. The half-day gathering brought together a remarkable cross-section of Tiruppur's stakeholder ecosystem. Eight brand representatives attended alongside twelve central trade union members. A representative from UN Women joined two NGOs and forty-seven exporters. Government was represented by three officials from the Labour Department and Department of Industrial Safety and Health, with the District Collector presiding. Guests included Peter McAllister, Executive Director of ETI, and Rana Alok Singh, ETI's South Asia Director.

For ETI, the moment represented validation of their approach to facilitation. Their goal had always been to support locally owned, sustainable structures, and the TSF's revival under TEA leadership embodied exactly that principle of self-empowerment.

The event represented more than getting people in the same room again. By 2024, the revived TSF was holding tripartite meetings that brought government actors into the fold, an important step toward legitimacy and long-term impact.

Building Momentum: From relaunch to action

The TSF embarked on a bold journey to transform the garment industry by setting four critical priorities: combating gender-based violence, enhancing occupational health and safety, establishing robust grievance redressal mechanisms, and addressing the pressing challenges faced by the migrant workforce. This vision took concrete shape at the inaugural TSF summit in June 2024, where these focal points were clearly defined, laying a strong foundation for collective action. Momentum rapidly built as over 200 passionate participants, including HR professionals, trade unions, brands, NGOs, and government officials, convened at the landmark HR Conference in November, centring on the vital role of HR in safeguarding dignity from recruitment through exit. 

Moving beyond dialogue, TSF deepened its impact by partnering with the Textile Industry Coalition, led by UN Women and the Tamil Nadu government, thereby strengthening its commitment to a Zero Tolerance stance on gender-based violence. Simultaneously, through ongoing engagement and capacity-building, the forum addressed occupational health and safety and fortified grievance mechanisms to ensure responsive and effective complaint resolution. Recognising the unique vulnerability of the growing migrant workforce, TSF amplified its efforts by developing targeted policies informed by comprehensive consultations and the drafting of Terms of Reference.

Knowledge-sharing became a cornerstone of this collective endeavour with high-impact sessions linked to the global 16 Days of Activism and a powerful first-ever Women’s Day celebration in March 2025 — transforming aspiration into real, measurable change. From the stirring onset at the summit to the uplifting crescendo of Women’s Day, TSF’s revival has proven to be much more than symbolic; it is a living testament to shared resolve, converting hope into lasting progress and lighting a path toward a fairer, safer garment industry in Tiruppur.

Union Perspectives: Cautious hope

Trade union representatives approach the revived TSF with measured optimism tempered by hard experience. As one union leader explained:

 "This isn't just about talk... ETI's support has given us a valuable platform, but now it's up to us, the workers and unions, to turn these good intentions into real, tangible change for the migrant workers who need it most."

Additionally, while unions have long been at the forefront of advocating for workers’ rights, the Union members recognise that the TSF offers a powerful collective platform to amplify their efforts and drive sector-wide transformation. Migrant workers' challenges are real and urgent: overcrowded and inadequate housing affects health and wellbeing; language barriers prevent many from understanding their rights or participating fully in union activities; and limited access to essential services leaves many marginalised. 

The unions recognise they don't depend solely on the TSF to raise worker concerns; they have always been on the frontlines. But the forum offers something valuable: a collective platform to amplify efforts and push for sector-wide change.

Industry Realities: Balancing competing pressures

Factory owners recognize the TSF as one of the few genuine spaces where frank conversations can happen about balancing worker welfare with staying competitive in the complex textile industry.

"The new TSF team brought a more balanced perspective to the table, which convinced us that we could work together towards realistic goals while also protecting our industry's future," shares one factory owner.

Yet practical concerns persist. "Sometimes our exporters ask, 'Why should I bear this cost alone?'" admits an industry insider, capturing a worry that spans the sector. This reflects not callousness but the practical reality of competitive pressures in global supply chains.

Brand Engagement: Beyond compliance theatre

One of the representatives of a European largescale brand acknowledges the ongoing challenge of creating consistent engagement across the industry: 

"We've had five meetings since 2023, and I understand how challenging it is to bring all stakeholders together. But as brands, we run many initiatives on our own. It's important to remember that everyone involved in the TSF is giving their time, intending to make a real difference in workers' lives."

The challenge is moving beyond discussion to action. 

"It's crucial for the TSF to establish a steering committee and develop a concrete action plan. Brands can then play an active role in encouraging other companies sourcing from Tiruppur to join the effort."

Still, commitment remains: 

"We as a brand will always support the TSF by sharing knowledge and taking on our part of the responsibility. We want to see the forum succeed in bringing real, lasting change to workers' lives."

NGOs and Civil Society: Advocates for transparency and inclusivity 

Non-governmental organisations (NGOs) and civil society groups serve as the bedrock of the TSF's promise, acting as diligent monitors and vocal advocates for worker rights and social justice. While the TSF’s early activities were characterized by varying levels of engagement, ongoing efforts have been dedicated to transforming it into a revitalised, more cohesive, and practically focused forum. These organisations stress the vital importance of cultivating a truly accountable, transparent, and inclusive platform where all voices are heard and valued, reflecting the TSF’s progress from initial challenges toward sustained and effective collaboration, 

"From the very first day, back in 2011, we have been an active part of the TSF," recalled one long-standing NGO representative. 

"While the TSF and TEA have initiated multiple efforts, true progress demands a renewed and strong spirit of collaboration focused on our four key objectives. To achieve this, we urgently need clear strategies and well-defined roadmaps to guide our collective action toward meaningful and lasting impact. Without a focused direction, our shared commitment risks fragmentation, but with a unified plan, we can transform collaboration into powerful, tangible change that uplifts every worker in Tiruppur’s garment sector."

These NGOs are actively pushing for the implementation of formalised governance structures that empower all stakeholders equally and facilitate continuous oversight, ensuring measurable impact and lasting change.

The ETI Factor: Neutral stewardship

Through every perspective, ETI’s role emerges as catalytic. Stakeholders credit ETI with being the neutral facilitator who restored dialogue after years of silence.

ETI’s persistence transformed mistrust into cautious cooperation. Its insistence on migrant inclusion and prevention, not just reaction, helped broaden the forum’s scope.

Yet, ETI is clear: TSF cannot be permanently donor dependent. Its sustainability must rest on local leadership, cost-sharing, and genuine ownership by exporters, unions, brands, and government.

Persistent questions and unbiased challenges

While the TSF has made important strides in fostering dialogue and collaboration across the garment sector, significant challenges remain that must be addressed to ensure long-term success. One ongoing issue is the sensitive nature of including trade unions effectively within the forum. Balancing the powerful interests of industry leaders with the genuine voice and empowerment of workers requires careful navigation, as both aspects are essential but can sometimes pull in different directions. Another major tension lies around the question of who bears the cost for systemic reforms aimed at improving labour conditions. Many factory owners and brands are hesitant to shoulder the full financial burden, leading to unresolved debates that can stall deeper, collective commitments to meaningful change. Without a clear agreement on shared responsibility, progress risks being piecemeal rather than comprehensive. Integration of the large and growing migrant workforce into the TSF’s activities and protections also remains incomplete. Overcoming these obstacles is crucial for the TSF to fulfil its mission of improving the welfare and rights of all workers in the Tirupur garment industry.

Adding to these challenges is the organisational uncertainty tied to TEA's governance structure. TEA operates with a rotating elective board, and the current board members' tenure extends only until October 2025. If current board members are re-elected, the TSF's momentum is likely to continue smoothly. However, should new board members assume leadership, questions arise about how the TSF will sustain its progress under potentially different strategic priorities. While most TEA members are aware of and supportive of the initiative, the long-term sustainability of the TSF under potential new leadership remains an open question that could determine the forum's trajectory.

Looking Forward: The test of sustainability

The true measure of TSF’s success will not be another high-profile event or one-off intervention. It will be whether this platform matures into a permanent, self-sustaining institution — capable of uniting employers, workers, and civil society in responding to a rapidly changing industry.

The vision is not a single “silver bullet” solution but a culture of continuous collective responsibility.

The revival of the Tiruppur Stakeholder Forum demonstrates that multi-stakeholder platforms can be renewed after periods of dormancy, but their long-term impact will depend on stakeholders' willingness to move beyond good intentions toward sustained commitment.

As one steadfast senior industrialist and TSF supporter declared, "We are the only credible vehicle to drive ethical production, cooperation, and dignity for all workers in Tiruppur. No matter the challenges we face, our conviction remains firm: one voice, one purpose, for the good of all."

The story of the TSF is still being written in meeting rooms and factory floors, in hostel dormitories and government offices. Whether it becomes a model for sustainable multi-stakeholder collaboration or another well-intentioned initiative that fades into irrelevance will depend on the choices made by those who hold power in this industry.

For the hundreds of thousands of workers in Tiruppur's garment factories — local and migrant, male and female, skilled and unskilled—the TSF represents more than just another forum. It embodies the possibility that their voices can be heard, their concerns addressed, and their dignity respected in an industry that has too often treated them as merely factors of production.

The question isn't whether all challenges will be solved — they won't be, at least not quickly. The question is whether stakeholders will choose the difficult path of sustained collaboration over the easier path of isolated action. In Tiruppur, as in many places around the world, the answer will determine not just the future of an industry, but the dignity and well-being of the human beings whose labour makes it possible.