ETI responds to new research on garment workers’ rights across South Asia

  • ETI
Garment worker

Amnesty International’s new research calls for greater accountability and systemic change in the garment industry. We have carefully reviewed the findings of both reports which raise serious concerns regarding the systematic denial of the fundamental right to freedom of association for garment workers in key sourcing countries. These reports also shine a necessary light on endemic human rights abuse endured by garment workers in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, with clear recommendations for states, authorities and sourcing brands. In particular, the reports highlight the gendered nature of these challenges, with women workers often facing additional barriers to exercising their rights.

ETI’s mission is to advance human rights in global supply chains through collaboration between businesses, trade unions, and NGOs. We advocate for and support company members to conduct a proactive and continuous approach to human rights due diligence (HRDD) to address actual and potential adverse impacts in their supply chains.

Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are enabling rights that are increasingly under threat worldwide. Having worked to drive respect and protection of these rights globally for over 25 years, we understand this is one of the hardest areas to address. ETI firmly believes that ensuring respect for workers' rights is a shared responsibility involving governments in both sourcing and consuming countries, as well as brands, retailers, and suppliers. These findings demonstrate more needs to be done to promote respect for freedom of association, address root causes of poverty wages, caste and gender discrimination, and improve the safety of workers making our clothes.

Five things remain clear:

  1. States must fulfil their responsibilities under international human rights law and the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs). The International Labour Organization (ILO) recognises freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining as fundamental principles, enshrined in Conventions 87 and 98, respectively, which are crucial for promoting workers’ rights and social dialogue. Denial of freedom of association will only serve to perpetuate these abuses. ETI urges governments to take immediate and concrete action to ensure that all workers can freely exercise these fundamental and inalienable rights.
  2. Companies must fulfil their responsibilities under the UNGPs and the OECD Guidelines, to conduct robust and transparent human rights due diligence throughout their supply chains. This includes proactively identifying and addressing risks to freedom of association, including through their own purchasing practices and sourcing strategies, and meaningfully engaging with workers and their representatives to ensure respect and protection of this fundamental right.
  3. Social dialogue, involving genuine engagement between workers, employers, and governments, is a critical mechanism for addressing labour issues and fostering industrial relations based on mutual respect. ETI’s experience working on social dialogue in Bangladesh and India underscores our conviction that when workers have a collective voice, they are better able to advocate for their rights and contribute to a more equitable and sustainable garment industry.
  4. There are situations where unions face significant challenges to carrying out their legitimate activity. This should not be used as a reason to establish alternative forms of representation that frustrate or interfere with union access or engagement in the future. Independent trade unions represent the ideal model for worker representation. Where FoA is restricted and where unions cannot operate, the next best available form of independent worker representation should be pursued.
  5. Voluntary measures alone are not enough. These findings underline the need for stronger legislation on business and human rights. ETI continues to advocate for mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence measures – in Europe, the UK and other countries – in line with our consulted position to drive action and remediation of these abuses. 

Amnesty International’s findings reinforce the urgent need for all stakeholders to work together. Since this research was conducted, ETI has worked closely with Amnesty International and our members to review the findings and outline practical steps brands can take, in collaboration with stakeholders, to drive meaningful progress on FoA in their supply chains. 

Dominique Muller, Regional researcher on workers’ rights at Amnesty International South Asia Regional Office:

"It is crucial that we translate the recommendations of our reports into concrete action. We welcome ETI’s commitment to improving the promotion and protection of workers’ rights to freedom of association and collective bargaining throughout the value chain. For too long fashion brands and retailers have treated the right to organise as a second-class right, when in fact it is a fundamental human right as well as a key enabling right in the struggle for decent work and a sustainable industry. We very much hope ETI member companies will take urgent action to address the findings and improve FoA in their supply chain."

As a leading alliance of NGOs, companies and trade unions working to advance human rights in global supply chains, ETI remains committed to promoting and facilitating respect for freedom of association in collaboration with relevant stakeholders, to ensure that garment workers in South Asia can exercise their rights without fear of reprisal. Worker representation and freedom of association are a core pillar in our upcoming Strategy 2030 and a key focus for ETI and its tripartite membership over the next five years.

Laurent Arnone, Senior Advisor Apparel and Textiles: 

“Freedom of association is the cornerstone of all other labour rights. These important findings demonstrate the barriers workers, especially women, face in exercising this fundamental right in South Asia. We value this engagement with Amnesty International and are committed to working with our company, union, and NGO members to drive progress through collaboration and robust human rights due diligence — helping workers organise safely and have a collective voice in their workplaces.”

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