Lessons from SMEP (Sustainable Manufacturing and Environmental Pollution Programme) 

This session explores key achievements of the Improving Environmental and Social Conditions in the Savar Tannery Estate, a 23-month project that supports leather tanneries in Bangladesh to develop and strengthen the systems that allow them to manage and mitigate the adverse environmental impacts stemming from their operations while at the same time building the capacity of managers and workers to create and maintain safe workplaces – for all workers. The speakers reflect on how tanneries were practically supported to develop and/or strengthen environmental and social management systems, and the way in which engagement with workers and their representatives allowed for great depth and breadth of impact.   

The benefits of a human rights and environmental due diligence for the Bangladeshi leather sector are explored and a holistic as key to tanneries accessing high-value markets.  Panelists discussed the importance of housekeeping, waste management and the pre-treatment of wastewater alongside the much needed improvements to the effluent treatment facilities on the Savar Estate. Lessons can also be learned from the tanneries that do hold Leather Working Group certification in Bangladesh – on the key and replicable strengths is data management.  Finally, opportunities and recommendations for maintaining momentum, including the role of the Leather Development Forum, and continued improvement are discussed.  

A question was raised towards the end of the presentation, which could not be addressed within the time limit. A response is below:  

DSN UK study in 2017 in India revealed that out of the 2.5 m workers in Leather tanneries, majority belonged to the Dalit and Muslim communities.  From Bukarumin Community in Japan to communities in other parts of the word people working in tanneries face discrimination because the job is dangerous, dirty and dehumanising.  How would you respond to this? 

All workers should be treated with dignity and respect, regardless of the work they perform. Within the scope of this project—the Savar Tannery Estate—we found that workers were generally representative of surrounding communities. Based on our engagement with workers which focused on environmental risks, occupational health and safety, including gender-based violence and sexual harassment, discrimination related to the type of work they performed was not proactively raised nor was this pattern that other stakeholders raised.  

While we did not find evidence that workers from a particular ethnic group or background were overrepresented within the Savar Tannery Estate, future work—particularly upstream in the collection and sourcing of hides and in the informal leather sector—should be informed by the perspectives and priorities of both businesses and workers, including an assessment of risks to the enjoyment of human rights. 

This project focused on addressing the “dangerous and dirty” aspects of tannery work, and we have made progress in improving these conditions. However, more needs to be done with workers and their representatives/trade unions drive further progress. Social dialogue, in general, reaffirms workers’ dignity and agency and is an effective tool to counter any potential dehumanisation. 

Improving Environmental and Social Conditions in the Savar Tannery Estate is part of the SMEP Programme, which is funded by UK International Development and implemented in partnership with UN Trade and Development (UNCTAD), who provide technical assistance.

File(s)

Building safer and greener tanneries: Lessons from Savar

Findings from the ‘Improving environmental and social conditions in the Savar Tannery Estate’ project, as part of the UK government-funded Sustainable Manufacturing and Environmental Pollution (SMEP) Programme.

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