Review your critical paths

Critical paths are essential tools in production planning. When used effectively, they support mutual understanding of roles, responsibilities, and the time required for each stage of production. 

Internal delays—such as in design, sign-offs, or lab-dip approvals—reduce the time your suppliers have for production. This often results in compressed timelines, which can compromise working conditions and reduce financial efficiency for suppliers.

In this video: a panel discussion about production planning

Rebecca O’Keefe, an ex-high street fashion buyer, shares ideas on what buyers can do to improve planning. She highlights:

• The critical path will fail if there is disconnect in any part of the process—from design to buying to management. 
• Multi-level sign-off procedures, lack of understanding, or lack of respect for supplier processes undermine deadlines. 
• The critical path must be embedded in the business. Add dates to calendars; start meetings by checking the critical path. 
• Train teams. Spend time with suppliers to understand production and the consequences of overriding the critical path.
• Support buyers to build win-win relationships with suppliers.

Adeel Hassan, Director of Operations of a Pakistan knitwear manufacturer, adds:

• Disorganised requests, unclear specifications, and last-minute changes disrupt timelines. 
• Timelines must be mutually understood and agreed.
• Buyers pushing to maintain delivery dates despite causing delays leads to financial loss for factories.

Jean Pierre Seveke, Board Director of an Indonesian apparel manufacturer, highlights:

• Open discussion early in product development is essential to achieve a “certain direction, certain target, certain price”. 
• The fabric may not suit the price—collaborate from the start to design fit-for-purpose products rather than squeeze manufacturing costs.
• Strong cooperation, verbal communication, and regular updates support mutual understanding.

Finally, supply chain expert Vanessa Podmore, urges: 

“Challenge your own ideas, be flexible, listen, and walk in each other’s shoes.” 

Track adherence to the critical path

Improving visibility and tracking of activity against your products’ critical paths can support your company to progress towards more responsible practices. 

Use this information to identify where internal delays occur and set targets to improve. Take responsibility for delays caused by your company. Liaise with suppliers to understand the consequences and adjust timelines—and where appropriate, costs—accordingly.

In this video: Margrethe Vikanes, Sustainability Lead at Holzweiler 

Margrethe shares improvements made to Holzweiler’s joint business calendar (critical path). She highlights:

• More time was allocated for production and sampling, recognising that timelines to feedback on samples had previously been too short.
• All steps were made visible and clear, helping clarify roles and responsibilities.
• Lead times were adjusted based on supplier input.
• The product range was streamlined to improve efficiency in sampling and planning.
• Clear deadlines were established, beyond which no further changes to specifications are allowed.

Looking forward, Holzweiler will focus on:

• Forecasting, production planning and capacity booking.
• Developing a fabric and block library.
• Reducing sampling and improving 3D design.
• Implementing open costing and ringfencing labour costs.